The funny thing about the hills here: you unzip them and learn they’re stuffed with cotton gauze, which, when dampened in the fall, winter and spring, swells and strains up through the topsoil and into the air, where it’s stretched and warped and woofed in the winds from the Gorge and the Palouse into hollowed ivory hoodoos filled with the urgent hissing of big carnivorous overfed lizards and their wranglers, and a large furtive community of mice and crows who build nuclear crop accelerators and collect undergrad grades and other shiny objects.

This popcorn Debby just made sure does have some interesting flavored salt.